Dear Eric: Why are so many fresh meats being injected with water? Does it help preserve the meat, or is the profit greater when the meat is heavier and loaded with water?
Diane Poulin
Dear Diane: According to government labelling laws, the meat/poultry products I believe you are describing are allowed to have the term “seasoned” on their label. To me, the use of that term is very misleading, because it does not mean that the product was flavoured with a bounty of tasty seasonings before being sold.
According to the Canadian Food Inspection Agency website, inspection.gc.ca, in this case the term “seasoned” in conjunction with the product’s name for solid cut meat is acceptable as a descriptor when phosphate salts or phosphate salts and water have been added, by means of injection, pumping, massaging, tumbling, marinating or mixing. They also note that if water alone is added, then an expression such as “water added” must be part of the product’s common name.
Products labelled “seasoned,” such as seasoned boneless, skinless chicken breast, seem to be most prevalent. They are offered for sale in all sorts of food stores and are used in fast food restaurants, such as McDonald’s.
Yes, salt is a seasoning, but to me these “seasoned” products should be labelled “brined.” Brine in its simplest form is a solution of salt and water. Because the brine contains a higher concentration of water and salt than the meat, some of the brine’s water and salt is able to pass into the meat cells through their semi-permeable membranes.
That extra-salty water in the flesh will keep meat, such as lean chicken breast or pork, moist during cooking, but it will also significantly increase the sodium content, while at the same time reducing the percentage of protein per unit of weight.
For example, according to a Canadian Living website article by Leah Kuhne, plain old raw chicken is about 21 per cent meat protein, but “seasoned” chicken is only 15 to 17 per cent protein. Kuhne also notes that “seasoned” chicken can contain up to five times more sodium than chicken that has not been processed in this way. If you are watching your salt intake, that is definitely something to take note of.
Why do food companies make these “seasoned” meat products? Well the technique can make tougher meats more tender. It can also bulk up the initial weight of the meat, meaning the consumer is also paying for salt and water. On the other hand, these products tend to be priced more cheaply than untreated raw meats.
I personally avoid meats labelled “seasoned,” which also include products that are flavoured in other ways, such as boxed, frozen chicken wings or breaded, stuffed chicken breasts. As well as being noticeably salty, they have a weirdly soft yet rubbery texture, with the grain of the meat almost non-existent.
Also, if I want to add moisture to meat before cooking, I can marinate or brine it myself. And that’s what I did with today’s pork chop dish, a recipe that could also be used for chicken.
RECIPE
Pineapple-Brined Pork Chops
The brine adds a tropical flavour to the chops, and there’s no need to add salt before cooking, as it is a key component in the brine. Serve the chops with steamed rice and a green vegetable, such as steamed gai lan or broccoli. This brine could also be used for four to six boneless, skinless, chicken breasts.
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Brining time: eight hours
Cooking time: About seven to eight minutes
Makes: four servings
1 cup hot water
3 Tbsp coarse (pickling) salt (see Note)
2 Tbsp golden brown sugar
2 cups unsweetened pineapple juice
2 tsp soy sauce
1 Tbsp coarsely chopped fresh ginger
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
20 whole black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
4 (each about 7 to 8 oz.) centre-cut pork chops
3 Tbsp vegetable oil
1/2 cup unsweetened pineapple juice
Place the water, salt and sugar into a deep, non-reactive (non-aluminum) bowl. Whisk until the salt and sugar is dissolved.
Mix in the two cups pineapple juice, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, peppercorns and bay leaves.
Submerge the chops in this brine. Cover, refrigerate and brine the chops for eight hours.
Remove the chops from the brine, set on a wide plate and dry with paper towel. Discard the brine.
Heat the oil in a large skillet set over medium-high. When hot, add the chops and cook three and a half to four minutes per side, or until just cooked through with a hint of pink in the middle.
Set the chops on plates. Drain excess fat from the skillet. Add the half cup pineapple juice to the skillet, bring to simmer, drizzle over the chops, and serve.
Note: Bags of coarse (pickling) salt are available in most grocery stores in the aisle other types of salts are sold.
Eric Akis is the author of the hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.
