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Eric Akis: Fried green tomatoes, from the big screen to your table

Dish inspired by movie Fried Green Tomatoes
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Eric Akis's recipe for Cajun-style prawns with fried green tomatoes and remoulade was inspired by the movie Fried Green Tomatoes. ERIC AKIS

It’s funny how a movie can make you become fond of foods you have never tried before. An example of that for my wife and I is the film Fried Green Tomatoes.

That movie, released in 1991, was set in the southern United States and based on Fannie Flagg’s 1987 novel Fried Green Tomatoes at the Whistle Stop Café.

I won’t get into the plot of the movie, but if you’ve seen it you’ll know there’s a scene where you’ll see deep, golden, crisply coated slices of green tomatoes frying in a cast iron skillet.

At that time, my wife and I had never made or eaten green tomatoes prepared that way, and that movie made them look delicious. So a few days after seeing the film, we decided to make our own fried green tomatoes. We’ve been making them around this time of year ever since.

From the get go, we discovered there’s something very appealing about the hint of acidity in the slices of unripe tomato and how well it marries with the crunchy cornmeal mixture coating them. And that goodness comes to a crescendo when you fry the tomatoes in hot oil.

We make fried green tomatoes around this time of year because it’s the best time to acquire the unripe green tomatoes needed, whether we get them from our backyard garden or from friends or family members.

You can also find unripe green tomatoes at farmer’s markets. If you don’t see them there, though, ask a farmer who is selling tomatoes if they can get you some.

Because Fried Green Tomatoes was filmed in the southern United States, I, like many others who saw the movie, assumed that fried green tomatoes originated in the south.

However, according to an article on the subject by Lisa Bramen on the Smithsonian Magazine website, they actually entered the American culinary scene in the Northeast and Midwest of the United States, perhaps with a link to Jewish immigrants.

The article adds that, from there, fried green tomatoes moved onto the menu of the home economics school of cooking teachers who flourished in the United States in the early-to-mid 20th century. It was only after the movie was released and was a hit that the tomatoes became popular in the American south.

All that said, I do enjoy serving fried green tomatoes in a southern-style way, and in today’s recipe that meant pairing them with nicely spiced Cajun-style prawns and tangy remoulade sauce. It’s a meal full of flavour could also serve with steamed rice.

You can make the remoulade sauce, which is kind of like a kicked up version of tartar sauce, in advance and keep it refrigerated until needed. After frying the tomatoes, you can keep them warm in a 200 F oven while you cook the prawns, which will only take a few minutes.

Cajun-style Prawns with Fried Green Tomatoes and Remoulade

Nicely spiced prawns served with crisply coated fried green tomatoes and tangy remoulade.

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: four to six minutes

Makes: two servings

1 Tbsp olive oil

2 to 3 tsp Cajun spice (see Note 1)

1 Tbsp butter

12 to 14 large prawns, peeled and deveined (see Note 2)

2 tsp chopped freshly parsley

• lemon slices and parsley sprigs, for garnish

• Fried Green Tomatoes (see recipe below)

• Remoulade (see recipe below)

Place oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add Cajun spice and bloom (awaken) this seasoning in the oil two minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add butter to the skillet. When melted, set in the prawns and cook them about one to two minutes on each side, or until cooked through. Now sprinkle prawns with the chopped parsley. Plate the prawns, garnish with lemon slices and parsley sprigs, and serve with the fried green tomatoes and remoulade.

Note 1: Cajun spice, also called Cajun seasoning, is sold in the bottled spice/herb aisle of supermarkets. If the brand you bought does not contain salt, season the prawns with salt before cooking them. If you want to make your own Cajun spice, in a small jar, combine 2 tsp paprika, 1 tsp dried oregano, 1/2 tsp dried thyme, 1/2 tsp onion powder, 1/4 tsp garlic powder, 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper and 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper. Use what you need for the recipe and save the rest for another time.

Note 2: To peel prawns, hold the end of the tail in one hand and use your other hand to grab onto its swimmerets, the little legs under the shell. Pull off the shell, leaving the very bottom portion of the tail intact. If the prawns were not sold deveined, use a small paring knife to make a lengthwise slit along the back of each prawn. Pull out, or rinse out with cold water, the dark vein, if there is one, pat the prawns dry, and they’re ready to use.

Fried Green Tomatoes

Slices of unripe, green tomatoes, coated with a cornmeal mixture, and then deliciously fried until golden on the outside, and piping hot in the centre.

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: six minutes

Makes: two servings

1 large egg

1 Tbsp milk

1/3 cup cornmeal

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp paprika

• pinch ground cayenne pepper

8 (1/2-inch thick, about 3 1/2-inch round) slices green tomato (see Note)

• salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• vegetable oil

In a shallow bowl, whisk together the egg and milk. In a second shallow bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, paprika and cayenne. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Season the tomato slices with salt and pepper.

Set a tomato slice in the egg mixture, turning it and ensuring it is evenly coated on both sides. Now coat that tomato slice in the cornmeal mixture, pressing on it to help it adhere. Set the coated tomato slice on the baking sheet. Repeat these steps with the remaining tomato slices, setting the coated slices on the baking sheet as you go along, ensuring they do not touch. Refrigerate the coated tomato slices until ready to cook. They can be prepared to this point an hour or two in advance of frying them.

When ready to fry the tomatoes, preheat a non-stick, electric griddle to 350 F, or set a large non-stick skillet or cast iron griddle over medium heat (see Eric’s options). Pour a thin layer of oil on the griddle (or in the skillet). When oil is hot, fry the tomatoes about three minutes per side, or until rich golden and piping hot in the middle. Serve the tomatoes with the Cajun-style prawns and remoulade.

Note: Two medium green tomatoes should yield the slices needed here.

Eric’s options: If you don’t have a griddle or skillet large enough to cook all eight tomato slices at once, cook the tomatoes in batches in a smaller skillet. Keep the cooked ones warm in a 200 F oven until all are ready.

Remoulade Sauce

This is a tangy, southern-style sauce that you can tastily dollop beside the fried green tomatoes and Cajun-style prawns.

Preparation time: five minutes

Cooking time: None

Makes: about 2/3 cup

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 Tbsp finely chopped sweet mixed pickles or sweet green relish

2 tsp fresh lemon juice

1 tsp capers, finely chopped

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp chopped fresh parsley

• pinch dried tarragon and paprika

1/4 tsp hot pepper sauce, such as Tabasco, or to taste

Combine ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until needed for the prawns and fried green tomatoes.

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Eric Akis is the author of eight cookbooks. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.