HAMBURGERS 101
Hamburgers have long been a popular food, particularly in summer, when you can fire up the barbecue and grill the patties outdoors. Somewhere along the line, a whole swath of folks decided that making their own patties was too much fuss. Evidence of this is the countless brands of frozen, ready-to-cook burger patties available.
They are convenient but, to me, many contain too many fillers and their colour when raw is not appealing. You also never know what quality of beef was used. I can't recall seeing Canada AAA, Canada AA or even Canada A grade beef noted on the packages.
It's for those reasons and, more importantly, taste and juiciness, that I prefer to make my own patties. It's not difficult, but there are a few things to think about. Below is a 101 guide to preparing them.
WHAT MEAT TO BUY
Ground beef is labelled as regular, medium, lean and extra lean based on fat content. Most sources suggest the best type for a hamburger patty is lean ground beef. Its 17 per cent fat content provides ample juiciness and flavour, but will not cause the burger to shrink too much as it cooks. For the freshest taste, purchase it from a supermarket or butcher shop that grinds its beef daily.
Most ground beef is made from pieces of meat from various parts of the animal and the flavour is good. A few supermarkets, and most likely a butcher shop, will also sell ground beef made from a specific part of the animal, such as the chuck or sirloin. If you can find it, the ground chuck, or a mix of the chuck and sirloin, is said by burger gurus to make the richest-tasting patties.
Note: In my June 24 column, I'll talk about grinding your own beef and making patties with it.
SAFELY HANDLING MEAT
It's best to cook fresh ground beef the day you buy it, but it could be stored in a sided container in refrigerator one day. Wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling ground beef. Thoroughly clean all surfaces - counters, dishes, utensils, thermometers, etc. - that come in contact with raw meat.
Use clean utensils and plates when removing cooked ground beef from the heat source, not ones that have been used to mix or move the raw meat. For additional information, visit the Health Canada website, hc-sc.gc.ca, and enter Food Safety Tips for Barbecuing Hamburgers into the search.
TO FILL OR NOT TO FILL
I've made and been served hamburger patties made with ground beef blended with such things as breadcrumbs, eggs and a whack of flavourings.
They've tasted just fine, in some cases divine, and adding breadcrumbs can stretch out the meat if you're feeding a throng of people.
However, in recent years, I've been taking a simpler approach. I'll either simply flavour the meat with such things as garlic and herbs (see recipe below) or, even more frequently, season it only with salt and pepper. If you've purchased good-quality ground beef and you plan to accompany the patty in the bun with all sorts of tasty toppings, the beef will stand out more if it's just - or almost just - beef.
SHAPING THE PATTIES
When mixing and shaping beef patties, do not overdo it. If you press and pack the meat together, the cooked patty will be firm and tough in texture.
To make a patty, lightly dampen your hands with cold water, as this will create a barrier that prevents the meat from sticking to them.
Make a very loose ball of the meat and set in the palm of one hand. Use the other hand to very gently press and shape the meat into a patty that just holds together. Press the edges gently to smooth them; the patty does not have to be perfectly shaped.
Don't make your patties too thin, or they could quickly overcook and dry out, or too thick, or the exterior will scorch before the middle is cooked. Threequarters-of-an-inch thick is ideal. If you make a deep dimple in the centre of the patty, it can help prevent the burger from puffing as it cooks.
COOKING THE PATTIES
Use a barbecue set to medium-high heat to cook the patties. The temperature in the chamber should be around 450 F. Try to flip the patty only once during cooking, as this will give the burger's exterior a nice sear and help lock in the juices. When cooking, do not flatten the patties out, or you'll press those juices out.
When cooked, beef patties should be brown throughout and have juices that show no pink. To kill any harmful bacteria, the patties' internal temperature should be 160 F (71 C) or above. To accurately gauge temperature, use a good-quality, instant-read digital thermometer sold at kitchenware stores. Insert it into the centre of thickest part of the patty.
HAMBURGER PATTIES WITH GARLIC AND HERBS
As noted above, these days, I frequently season burger patties very simply, with just salt and pepper. If you feel the need to kick things up a notch, this recipe will also accent the meat with garlic, herbs and tangy Worcestershire sauce.
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes Makes: 4 to 5 (5-to 6-ounce) hamburger patties
1 1/2 lb. lean ground beef
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 Tbsp mix chopped or snipped fresh herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, chives and/or parsley
1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
? salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
? vegetable or olive oil for the grill (optional) Place the beef, garlic, herbs and Worcestershire in a bowl and very gently mix to combine. With coldwater-moistened hands, divide the meat mixture into 4 to 5 equal loose balls. Gently shape each ball into 3/4-inch thick patty. Season the patties with salt and pepper.
Preheat your barbecue to medium-high. Lightly oil the bars of the grill if prone to sticking. Cook the burgers for 4 to 5 minutes per side, with the lid closed, or until entirely cooked through and the centre of each burger reaches 160 F (71 C) or above on an instant-read meat thermometer. Sandwich the burgers in warm buns with your choice of toppings and condiments.
WINE WITH THAT BURGER?
I asked Times Colonist beverage writer Garth Eichel to suggest a wine to serve with hamburgers.
He chose Lujuria Vino Tinto 2010. It's from Spain, costs around $10 for a 750 mL bottle and is available at Everything Wine in Langford. "This mediumbodied red is a cheerful blend of Merlot and Monastrell that has lots of black and red fruit character, light acidity and gentle tannins that can stand up to a burger's cornucopia of flavours. A killer value at this price," Eichel said.
THEMED HAMBURGER IDEAS
You can, of course, accent your hamburgers in traditional ways, with such things as mustard, relish, tomatoes, onion, lettuce and cheese. You could also top them in themed ways.
Below are few ideas.
KENTUCKY-STYLE HAMBURGERS
Sandwich the beef patty, topped with bourbon barbecue sauce and melted smoked cheddar, in a sourdough bun with lettuce, crisply cooked double smoked bacon and fried onions
TEX-MEX HAMBURGERS
Sandwich the beef patty, topped with melted jack cheese, in bun with salsa, avocado, sour cream and shredded lettuce.
EXOTIC MUSHROOM HAMBURGERS WITH GOAT CHEESE AND TRUFFLE OIL
Spread and line the bottom half of a hamburger bun with garlic-flavoured mayonnaise and lettuce. Set on the beef patty. Top with a sautéed mix of mushrooms, such as brown, oyster and shitake, and crumbled goat cheese. Drizzle with a little truffle oil and set on top of the bun.
EUROPEAN-STYLE HAMBURGERS
Sandwich a beef patty, topped with melted gouda and/or Swiss cheese, in a dark rye roll with grainy mustard, pickles and sauerkraut.
ENGLISH-STYLE BURGER DELUXE
Sandwich a beef patty in a bap (a soft yeast roll with a floury finish) with lettuce, mayonnaise, horseradish, tomatoes, sautéed leeks and Stilton cheese. [email protected]
Eric Akis is the author of the best-selling Everyone Can Cook series of cookbooks. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.
