Here, beauty is both in the contemporary luxurious spaces and on the plate, where dining is dispensed without the pomp and circumstance (despite the finest caviar), and instead delivers an upscale yet approachable dining experience on Victoria's Douglas Street, with affectionate nods to the very best of Vancouver Island.
Marilena Cafe & Raw Bar, owned by Vancouver-based Toptable Group (Blue Water Cafe, Elisa, CinCin, Whistler’s Araxi, Il Caminetto and Bar Oso, plus New York’s Oceans and Carlotto), who continue their passion and commitment to excellence with their latest addition to their growing empire of stylish and award-winning restaurants. A year of firsts, Marilena recently celebrated their inaugural anniversary and the number-one spot on Canada's 100 Best new restaurants 2024.
A seafood-centric concept, the menu reads like a love letter to the ocean, prepared with inimitable self-assurance—and the culinary muscle to support it—by executive chef Kristian Eligh, who honed his exemplary skills in globally acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants and most recently as culinary director with Hawksworth Restaurant Group in Vancouver, and now, has returned to his roots.
"I was excited to come back to Victoria," says Eligh. "I left in my early twenties and after a near 16-year run in Vancouver, I was ready for a bit of a change.
"This opportunity was one that my wife and I didn't want to pass up, to bring something unique and new back to the community that we both grew up in."
Vibrant, fresh, menu hits
From an open kitchen, where there's a convivial vibe around the chef counter, Eligh and his top-notch culinary team deliver impeccably crafted dishes of global and local sustainable seafood, paired with farm-fresh high-quality ingredients from notable local produce purveyors such as Northstar Organics, Square Root Farms, and Silver Rill Corn.
Every dish is delightfully light and bright, the self-professed cooking style Eligh respects.
"I want guests to leave well nourished, but not bogged down with heavy, rich flavour profiles. So, a lot of the fish dishes are broth focused or lighter vinaigrettes."
The fresh and expertly crafted Japanese raw bar offers a selection of nigiri, sashimi and sushi rolls, and its signature oshi, lightly torched aburi sockeye salmon, is a soft and delicious crowd pleaser. Crispy lobster tacos (fun and shareable) are also a standout starter, as is the imported Italian burrata, perfectly paired with fresh organic tomatoes.
From raw and chilled seasonally selected oysters, both two- and three-tiered seafood towers, to small plates and large, the selection is vast.
Mains hold court both visually and for their addictive flavour profiles, like the miso glazed sablefish, and striped bass, a plate most notable for its crispy skin and the most photographed by media, admits Eligh. Top billing for the halibut, too, with local corn, and shellfish herb broth.
A free diver and avid fisherman, Eligh is quick to note, "It's special anytime we can pull fresh Dungeness crab or spot prawns from our waters. I love those kinds of local seafood delicacies that come and go with the seasons that we can feature."
Don't miss a sweet (but not too sweet) ending by talented pastry chef, Dominique Laurencelle, with house staples including, Marilena chocolate bar, molten chocolate cake, with swoon-worthy dark cherry ice cream, and vanilla bean cheesecake, balanced with a yuzu sorbet.
"She's very good at tempering the sweetness, and also sometimes incorporating a very subtle savory note, like the peppercorn dusting in her summer berries and vanilla Chantilly, a riff on a strawberry shortcake," says Eligh.
Impeccable service, wine and beverages
Expect ultra-polished service led by restaurant director Aaron Matsuzaki, with more than 18 years of industry knowledge, his team keeps guests feeling relaxed and welcomed.
All Toptable restaurants celebrate a deep wine program and Marilena is no exception. Created by wine director Shane Taylor, who has formulated an impressive international selection, but also a solid B.C. presence, paying homage to the Island's premier wineries.
Bar manager Jayce Kadyschuk’s thoughtful and curated cocktail offering is very food friendly, "tightly woven and congruent," says Eligh. It's punctuated with a gin and tonic program, created with five different plays on various gin and tonics, all unique tonics, all local gins.
Tables are in high demand with180 seats, serving 250 guests on average, 350 on a busy night; there's lots of energy and excitement when the room is buzzing.
"There are many unique areas of the restaurant to enjoy, each offering a distinct ambiance and experience," explains Eligh. "From the dining room, bar lounge and four-seat chef counter, to the sushi bar, atrium and private rooms, where you're seated will shape your dining experience. And, we also have a 28-seat patio."
"Since we opened, over 90% of our guests are local, which is exactly what we set out to do," says Eligh. "To build a restaurant that Victoria was excited about and could get behind and that's what we're seeing. So, a big thank you to Victoria and a huge thank you to our team!"
For more information or for reservations, visit marilenacafe.com, and follow on Instagram.
